Tuesday, June 19, 2007

Back in the USSR

OK, we're not really in the Soviet Union, but so much of what we are seeing in Crimea is a throw-back to the old days. Some of the street vendors tell the prices in "rubles" (they don't use them here in Ukraine anymore!!). We are staying in a beach town called Alushta which is just up the coast from Yalta (where we were in December). The water is pretty and fresh (Black Sea) and the beach, although a bit rocky (smooth small rocks not jagged ones), is full of tourists. There is a strong Russian vibe with many ethnic Russian people and not much of any traditional Ukrainian feel. Not to mention, "CCCP" items are all-the-rage (that is USSR stuff) and you can find the "CCCP Disco", "CCCP ice cream", "CCCP t-shirts". CCCP standing for United Soviet Socialist Republics, by the way. You don't see these things in Kyiv and definitely not Western Ukraine!

We are staying in a type of resort called a "sanitorium" (yet another one of those words that doesn't get translated when people speak English). It's actually 'sanitoriya' in Russian and they are all over the coast of Crimea. The particulary one we are staying in was the "sanitorium" for the Soviet Army when they needed to 'take a rest'. It consists of leafy grounds with a guard that checks you in and out of the gate (making sure you are wearing a shirt on the sanitorium grounds if you are a woman!), many square concrete buildings with motel or dormitory-style rooms (the buildings are called "corpus" - we happen to be staying in "corpus one" - check out the view from our 6th floor balcony), and 'activities' and 'services' availabe like tennis, ping pong, billiards, massages, and cafeteria. Some great examples of the "socialist realism" manifest themselves in the fountains, sculptures, and architecture. It is directly uphill from the beach, so although our view is pretty, we get quite a workout coming back to the room. The classroom I train in is on-site (also quite a downhill incline from our "corpus").

We have been to the beach, each sanitorium having a special entry to the beach. We can walk about 15 minutes down the hill through the grounds and reach the "beach" that "belongs" to our sanitorium. We have to show our 'cards' and they let us hang out on the beach. It actually has chairs to lie on, and I bought a raft to float around. Not any surf as it is a sea, so we have just been trying to soak up a few rays. We are at a high latitude, something like Calgary, Canada, so no one tends to get burned that quickly or severely.

There is a boardwalk that reminds me of Coney Island (even though I've never been there!). They have booths with games, peanuts, beer, bacon-flavored popcorn, and the same street food I grew to love in Luhansk. There are people everywhere paying for novelty pictures with a racoon, in Catherine-the-Great costumes, with monkeys, eagles, and even two Black men dressed a natives. Quite an interesting time warp feeling.

The Summer Institute on Academic Writing is going well; the participants are great. We are going out for a group (30 participants) get together for ice cream and wine. It should be fun. The last day is tomorrow - off to Kyiv on Saturday. Our final days in Ukraine are approaching!

1 comment:

Dzeniferka said...

I was in The Hague recently and saw a really weird memorial to Stalin -- basically a head piece mounted inside of a phone box with a dead fish laying beside it. No graffiti or signage. Go figure. The world out there is bizarre, indeed.