myself... but now we are in Granada, a unique blend of Spanish and Arabic language, architecture, and food! We had delicious falafels for lunch today with baklava appetizers (I know it's supposed to be the other way around). But the food has been terrific here and everywhere in Andalucia. Here it is not only good but plentiful too. Many places give the tapas away for free with a drink purchase! We didn't even have to buy dinner last night... it was "estupendo"!
The title of this entry refers to our morning quest for a bar/restaurant that offers our daily dose of fresh-squeezed orange juice - called "zumo" with the tongue slightly hissing behind the front teeth, not "jugo" as in Latin America - which is very plentiful all over Southern Spain, AND a minimal cigarette smoke quotient. It's difficult but not impossible. Some 
restaurants are even smoke free. It seems that now (maybe due to entrance into the E.U.), although employees like bank tellers can't smoke in their place of work like they did when we visited 7 years ago, people can have "smoking permitted" restaurants and bars if they post a sign on the door which clearly states this. Very few establishments have chosen to be "smoke free", but they do exist. We thought it was funny that establishments that don't allow dogs simply state on the door: "Perros, no"
Just to summarize, here's where we've been so far: 1) flew into Madrid; 2) train to Cordoba; 3) train to Sevilla; 4) bus to Cadiz; 5) bus to Conil (small beach town); 6) taxi to Tarifa (jumping off point to Morocco); 7) Train to Ronda (mountain town with awesome views and a great Salvador Dali exhibit); 8) Granada (where we are now).We will head back to Madrid after a couple of days here which will include seeing La Alhambra... more news soon! Hasta pronto...
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