
OK, there's a double "entendre" in the title (gosh, I wish I could say that in Russian, or even Ukrainian for that matter)... so hold tight and it will be worth it. So, we are back from the 'way out west' and it was truly a 'red carpet' welcome. The teachers from the pedagogical university barely let us out of their sight not only organizing a great room for my presentations, but inviting us to a birthday bash (see feast photo), but also escorting us on excursions (in a van!) which included a trip to "Pochayiv Monastery" near "Kremenets" and the small town of "Zbarazh".
The main city of Ternopil is a great hideaway with a lot of potential for

someone wanting to get away, be an artist, or just relax. There is a really picturesque church in the center, a lake, and many old buildings crying out for renovation. The first outing was to a famous monastery, about 90 minutes from Ternopil, called Pochayiv. It is Russian Orthodox in the middle of 'very Ukrainian' western Ukraine, however there are famous relics that people come from miles around to see... and bow over... and kiss. The first of these relics is an imprint of Mary's (yes, that Mary) foot. It was apparently found in the mountains, a cast was made and brought to the church. Also, there is a mummified saint (his hand is left out during a certain period for touching, but we were too late) , and a "miracle icon" of the Virgin and Child. It was a more intense experience than we anticipated.
First of all, Joe (knowing that men's heads are NOT to be covered and women's heads ARE to be

covered) forgot to take of his knit cap as we were entering one of the churches. A man from across the floor ran toward him saying "something something shopka" reaching for his head. To quote Joe, "his cat-like reflexes" went into action whipping off his own cap before the "devotee" was able to. Not to mention, that before entering I had seen a woman who had just fainted. She was skinny as a rail with a green-blue tinge to her skin. I was really worried that she was, in fact, dying. I called someone to go back outside with me to call

someone. But the woman that had been slapping her and throwing water in her face had managed to revive her. Whew... Well, the adventure continued with the monk who was skeptical about selling me holy water (you can buy it in plastic bottles with a souvenir label) and asked if I had been baptized. He finally accepted my 85 cents and sent me on my way. After our church visit, we were treated to, yes, more food at a charming restaurant in the small town of Kremenets.
On our second day, our guides (again, teachers from the university) were eager to treat us to a castle tour. It was great as this castle, in Zbarazh, is also a historical musuem - with many

colorful textiles from the region. We then ate delicious wholesome food at a Garden Restaurant. The girls made sure we had souvenirs of Ternopil such as a hardback picture book and a flyer from the famous restaurant (which, I forgot to mention, was owned by the adjoining sugar beet factory). All the teachers met us at the train station to bid us farewell. It was very sweet. I was ready to get back to Kyiv and get back into our routine. But I didn't count on the dust mites.
Well, to make a long story short. We made our beds with the fresh sheets and pillow cases provided (actually the 2 dollar fee had been included in our train ticket price). We fell asleep in our tiny compartment (usually sleeping four, but we had paid for the whole compartment). This is a feat considering that these trains are pretty old, rickety, squeaky, bumpy, well ... you name it. At least they are dark and affordable. In the middle of the night I felt like I couldn't breathe very well. I didn't know what to think so lay very still hoping the pressure in my chest would go away. In the morning, breathing was ever-so-painful and I couldn't breathe deeply at all. I have never had asthma before... but I just know that's what I was experiencing.
When we got back to our apartment, Joe researched on the Internet and we were able to find

out that many people are allergic to dust mites that live in "bedding and pillows". According to the Mayo Clinic Website: "Too small to see with the naked eye, dust mites thrive in warm, humid environments — eating dead skin cells and nesting in dust-collecting bedding, fabric, carpet and furnishings." Wikipedia goes on to say, "The... dust mite's partially digested food, and fecal matter, is one of the most significant sources of
allergens, implicated in
allergic asthma."
Now, two days later, I am starting to feel a bit better; it's easier to breathe and I don't feel so much pain in my lungs. I am happy to know what it was (see
evil mite photo on Wikipedia)! I said it would be worth it (reference suspicious looking pillow in the photo). Now, I hope you get the title. Till we meet again...